Travel letters in English

Thailand January 2008

After diving with the Whale Sharks, we went to the Southern part of Bohol, where we saw “cock fighting”, which is the Philippine National Sport. Very brutal, but "a must" to see. Here we met a local doctor, who offered to take us sightseeing to “Chocolate Hills”, just paying his driver for the trip. We followed the coast and came to Panglao, a famous Island at the South west corner, where diving is good.
Especially at Alona Beach and Balicasag Island. From there we went north and passed Cebu and entered a small bay called Carmen, where a Boat Yard was located “Pinoy Boat Services”. Here I had some work done, a paint job on the stern, plus some stainless steel polishing. Very cheap labor. After crew change, Lise and Thomas went home and Karsten and Robert came, we went north to some small Islands, Malapascua, and the “New Boracay”.
A very nice little place with not too many tourists. Here we stayed a week. Karsten went on Padi dive course.
After cruising e few weeks and diving, we went back to Carmen. Here I had to send my Bauer compressor to Manila for repair. It has been servicing me for 25 years, so now it needed maintenance. We continued to Cebu and moored in Cebu Yacht Club. Also here we went diving.
We met some local divers, who told us some good dive spots in the Philippines. Back to Panglao and Balicasag, from there to Negros Island, Apo Island, and up to Boracay. From here I went to Manila and picked up my wife Sue, (just married in January)who flew in from the US to spend her hollydays. We spend a few days in Manila and went back to Boracay. She joined a dive shop “Scuba Libre” and got her Open Water Certification with German Sonja and Andy as instructors. Karsten went to Manila from here. Here we also met Leif and Brenda, who had a nice pension house.
From here we (Sue, Thomas Nordling, Sandro Tobler and me), went on a dive trip to Tubbataha Reef in the Sulu Sea, a very good trip with lots of good diving. Back again we had some good dives on Boracay. Next stop was Puerto Galera, where I hired two Philippinos to rip up the old caulking on the teak deck.
After a couple of weeks, it was done, with new caulking, a big job. All material was ordered/delivered from Breakwater Marine in Manila, run by Rodney Hagerty. Unfortunately Sue had to go back to the States, but we had a great time in Puerto Galera and met a lot of nice people. Especially in Puerto Galera Yacht Club, where Commodore Peter Stevens became a good friend. Sue did her sailing course at the Yacht Club.
After spending about 7 month in the Philippine area, it was time to move on. Andy Corw in and his girlfriend Marina joined me to Coron Bay on Palawan. We had some good dives at Apo Reef and on the WWII wrecks in Coron Bay. From there I sailed single handed, 700 miles to Borneo, where the next crew, Lene, came in Kota Kinabalu.
All the time in the Philippines we had no wind, only an hour or so sometimes. So the engine has been working a lot. The Philippines and Borneo, Indonesia and the Southern part of Malaysia is in the Inter Tropic Convention Zone.
Along the coastline of Borneo, we visited Brunei, the very rich (oil) Islamic State. From Kuching we went north, about 800 Nautical Miles, direct to Koh Chang, in the eastern part of Thailand where Soren came onboard. We had some nice days at Island View Resort, at Dieter and his wife Sue.
From here we went Elephant Riding in the jungle and motor biking around the Island. We also visited Koh Samet and Pattya, before we went up the Menam River into the heart of Bangkok. Here Flemming and Hans came on board.
From there we went south along the eastern coastline of Thailand. The water has been murky from the rivers for a long time and it was the same all along. Too murky to dive. We had some stop. Songhkla and Tioman Island was nice. In Singapore we stayed in Republic of Singapore Yacht Club for a week.
After radar repair, we went north to Langkawi, a very nice place, where we saw a lot of sailors for the first time in month.
From Langkawi we went back to Thailand and anchored in Ao Chalong Bay on Phuket.
We will cruise around here until January 20. 2008. Then we will turn around and sail back to Singapore to get the AIS system on board. For more safety. It is mandatory for all big ships, but Singapore Port Authoryty demands AIS onboard all ships and boats, also for Yachties cruising around Singapore waters. But the transponder can be rented while remaining there.
The AIS system works via VHF radio. A transmitter sends the GPS positions out via the modem, so the ship is visible on other ships Sea Map screen. And visa versa.
The Chineese Co. Smartradio sell a transponder (2 way)for a good price. (about 600 USD) It works fine together with Max Seas latest version, but have to have its own VHF antenna.
From Singapore we will sail to Indonesia. All the paper work is almost done (CAIT, Visa).

Happy New Year and safe sailing to everybody.

Jan Klintegaard

Philippines March 23. 2007

After Ulithi, we went to Yap and stayed there for a little more than a week. We were lucky, that the annual Yap day was coming up, so we decided to wait. In the mean time we dove with Manta Rays on the North coast.
The Yap day was fantastic. Two days with performance dancers and local entertainment. Topless Women's sitting dancers and Men's standing dancers. 
After Yap, we went to the small atoll Ngulu, about 80 NM south, on the track to Palau. The Ngulu people welcomed us. Anaconda had been there tree month earlier. They invited us to a turtle party, where they slaughtered a big green turtle and barbecued it.
From Ngulu we went to Palau, about 350 NM. After clearance we sailed and dove this wonderful Island lagoon. Clear water, lots of fish, sharks, turtles and much more. Beautiful Rock Islands and fresh water lakes with jelly fish in hundred thousands. Palau was some of the best diving in this part of the world.
After two weeks there, we left for the Philippines. Tree and a half day across the 600 miles Philippine Sea to Surigao on the North Coast of Mindanao.
Nice People and very cheap. Now we are on the Island Panaon and to day, we have been diving for hours with Whale Sharks. Fantastic!!
Regards from Jan Klintegaard

Ulithi Atoll, Yap State, February 20. 2007
Before we left Guam, we made a wooden plate with a regards to the Marianas Yacht Club from Anaconda and crew. It was very beautiful made by Tina Hansen in strong colours. Before it was dark, we were on the open Ocean and headed for Ulithi, 335 Nautical Miles. We were there after 49 hours; an average speed of 6,8 knots downwind. Underway we cached a Rainbow Runner and a Mahi Mahi. The crew had some minor problems with seasickness, but it disappeared, when we entered the Northern part of the Ulithi lagoon. We anchored behind the Island Asor, which is one of the four inhabited Islands out of about 40 total. The other tree is Falalop, Mog Mog and Fassarai.
When we anchored, just before dark, a native guy came swimming out and greeted us welcome to his Island. He insisted we had to come ashore the next day and say hello to his father, the Chief of the Island. The people also wanted to trade and we brought gift for the chief, like rice, sugar, salt, beer, soft drinks, Coffee and candy for the children. We were shown around on the Island and really enjoyed to be on the real Pacific Island between natives, living in palm huts. We stayed there the next day too, relaxing and snorkeling. February 16. We continued to Fassarai, where, again, we got a warm welcome from the happy native, who remembered Anaconda from two month ago. The chief and his son Miki borrowed my map of DVDs, so they were happy. Also, last I was there, Miki asked me to buy a DVD player for him on Guam, so he was happy when I gave him that. The payment was mostly in naturals, but a cargo parachute was part of it. Besides this, his wife will make some handicrafts for me. A basket and two rings, made of Turtle bone and a lava, like a sarong. The Cargo parachute is one of several, I have been able to get. They will be used as "sails" downwind instead of a spinnaker, but this I will tell more about, when we will use them.
In the Men’s house, the native told us, that they caught the Tiger shark, that has been seen around in the lagoon, before I was here last time, but it was too strong, snapped the line and got away with the hook in the mouth. Since then, they have not seen it. One day we sailed to the other side of the lagoon and dove on the outside of the reef. Beautiful corals, lots of fish, sharks and turtles. The same night Miki and his two friends came by with 5 lobsters and some crabs, so the following day we had lobster party onboard.
To day we went diving on a WWII shipwreck in the middle of the lagoon. An American Navy Oil Tanker, USS Mississinewa on 25.000 ton, which was torpedoed with full cargo by the Japanese. It went on fire and sank in two parts on 130 feet of water and a lot of the crew died. In 2001 it started leaking, so the American Navy had to take care of the problem. After a lot of preparing and drilling and suction for four weeks, they managed to get 2 million gallons fuel out of it and sealed the holes, so now it is safe for some time. At the same time they put up a memorial plate on the Island Mangejang, close to the wreck. The wreck was not on the sea map’s position, so we had to pay for getting a local guide, also a son of Chief Centi, to show us the spot. The dive was fantastic, clear water and lots of fish. It is common custom that you have to pay for every dive, to the owner of the dive site. For this dive, we payed 15 USD per person diving. This evening Thomas Krogsgaard went snorkeling with Miki and his friends on the neighbour Island and came back with 6 big lobsters. To morrow we will leave and head for Yap, about 100 nautical miles SW from here.

Guam, February 12. 2007
Sanding and varnishing, again, and again. One project after another went away, but the weather have been fine. Sanding dust and saw dust everywhere is common , but it to see an end on everything now. A good friend, I met here, Randy gave me 6 very special batteries, which has been supplied to "Anacondas" battery bank. They were meant for installation in the Airport emergency power equipment, but got superfluous, so now they are doing their job here. A couple of weeks ago, there was a small "Regatta"
for the remaining boats here and I was invited on board Randys boat. But we had to give up quick, because the rudder system did not work. Randy has an older boat, "Moon Dancer". The Rudder mechanism was loose on the rudder shaft and he did not see it, until it was too late. But we had a fine day on the boat.
In the middle of all the work, I ordered boat equipment in the US via Port Supply, which Mac and Charlie from the Yacht Club runs. They live on their boat "Spin Drift". One of the packages, with a new vacuum toilet, was too expensive to ship to Guam, so a combination of picking up the package in US, other purchases and visit Sue in Pittsburgh was perfect. A week in Pittsburgh and two days in Las Vegas together with Sue, was a nice "vacation" before the next trip across the Pacific Ocean with Anaconda.
(And Yes, we said YES to each other) Sue went back to Pittsburgh, but will be back on Anaconda in June.
My stay in Guam has been wonderful. The weather is now fine, the dry season has started. I also got time for a little "sight seeing" and diving. There is a lot of diving activities on Guam. It is not the usual coral reef, as on the atolls. The coastal area is rock, but with a little coral on top. The fish population is down, due to over fishing from the locals, but we saw Sea Turtles, Barracudas, Moray Eel, Sting Rays, big schools of Tunas, Crevalle Jacks and more. Absolutely nice dives, but one
get pampered after been diving all over the World on some of the best dives. I have bought more dive equipment and the tanks have been hydro tested.
Saturday February 3. the new crew arrived. Thomas Krogsgaard, Ulrich Belli, Tina Hansen and Lise Madsen. I picked them up in the airport. With 5 persons and all the luggage there was quite a load on, but we managed. There were no problems at all with immigration, so it is confirmed, that You don't need US VISA to leave Guam on a sailboat. Shortly after they arrived, we got an invitation to a "surprise party", for Bob Leeper, who became 60 years. A wonderful evening with all the nice people from
the Marianas Yacht Club. The night after we went for "Pool" games on the local bar "Sumay" with a lot of beer. During the next days we finished up most of the work on the boat and we made the big grocery purchase in some of the supermarkets. We also made a dive with "Bob" so every body could say, that they have been diving on Guam and the Friday after there was the last "good buy" in the Yacht Club. We were lucky, that the Consulates for Micronesia, Palau and the Philippines was in the same building
in Hagatne Town, so we got all the paperwork done in one time. Normally European citizens automatically get 21 days visa to the Philippines, but the people on the Ph. Consulate recommended, that we should reply for a 3 month visa, because it would make our arrival much easier, so we did that. Normally it cost 50 USD per person. We got surprisingly happy, when we picked up the Visas, because it was free. The reason was, they said, that there is good relations between The Philippines and Denmark. It
warmed our hearts. 
Entry permit to Palau cost 50 USD to be payed on arrival. Micronesia/Yap is free, but we have to show the immigration our entry permit, or the copy of the application, on arrival. After getting the last diesel and water, sewing the foresail and make the boat "Seaworthy", we went away February 12. from Guam and headed for the Ulithi Atoll close to Yap. 
Again it was sad to say goodbye to a lot of new friends that you know, that you will never see again. But I hope to meet up with Charlie and Mac again. They will leave Guam and sail to Malaysia during the summer, so we will stay in contact.

Guam December 30. 2006
Busy, Busy!!, Thanks for all the Christmas greetings. It makes You warm, down here in the "cold".
I am sanding and varnishing everywhere and the boat is partly disassembled inside. 20 years of wearing and specially the last 5 years, is visible everywhere, but it will now be nice again. The engine driven freezer compartment, which I got installed shortly before I left Denmark i 2001 and which never has worked properly, is now finally disassembled and thrown on the dump. Big mistake!. But it gave me a lot of space under the navigation table, which I am going to use now. Sanding dust, saw dust, planer dust, glue and screws is something many probably can imagine and remember.

Guam is OK. There are just too many commercials in TV and Radio. You get bombed so it is too much. All respect to the commercials for the aid to the Typhoon Durian victims on the Philippines, but... the commercials return every 5-10 minute, same thing on and on again and it has being going on for weeks. Together with all the Christmas commercials. Well... it can be shut down on the knob.

There are big diving activities on Guam and it is very cheap. I went diving together with one of the members from the Yacht Club the other day. Two dives only 40 USD. PADI Open Water Course in December was 99 USD for one weeks instruction, but in January it is 150 USD. Still cheap. For those, that is interested in coming out here and sail and dive with Anaconda, it will be a cheap way to get the certification. And then You are ready for leaving Guam in the beginning of February, sail to Yap, dive with the Mantas and continue to Palau and the Philippines with lots of diving adventures. For those, that does not know the prices, a dive course like this, cost much more other places, 3-5oo USD is common, but up to 700 USD is seen.

The Christmas was quiet and calm. I was invited to Christmas dinner at several members of the Marianas Yacht Club, wich is nice and helpfully. 
I have ordered equipment and material in US, so Anaconda can be "Ship Shape" for her next trip heading for the Philippines.

Happy New Year from Jan Klintegaard.

THE BOAT
Anaconda is a 48 foot cutter rigged sailboat, build of fiberglas by the skipper himself and launched in the year 1986. Layout like a Swan". Danish registered and Danish flag.
Beam 15 ft. Draft 8 ft. Mast high 63 ft. Sails are Main, Genua and jíb. Engine Perkins 82 HP.
Boat speed up to 8 knots by engine. Spinnaker and storm sails is on board. 4 anchors and lot of anchor chain and ropes.

Equipment include Autopilot, B&G instruments, Furuno Radar and GPS and Navtex, Icom SB-HF radio, VHF radio, Navigation laptop with Weather Fax, fog horn, Onan generator 9 KW, 220 and 110 volt.
Two Kiss Wind generators, solar panels, freezer, refrigerator, stove with oven, 700 liter water storage (about 200 us Gall.) 500 liter diesel capacity (about 150 gall.) TV and CD-DVD player, lots of DVD.s.

Toilet and shower room. 7 berth in 4 rooms.

10 feet CARIBE RIB dinghy with 15 HP Yamaha and spare 10 HP Johnson outboard.
EPIRB Distress radio, 8 person Viking Life raft.
There are 7 dive tanks onboard and dive equipment for 3-4 persons to dive at the same time. We have our own Dive Compressor.

There are a lot of tools onboard, so we can repair mostly everything our selves. Sail sewing machine, TIG-stainless steel welding and electric tools.


THE SKIPPER
The skippers name is Jan Klintegaard, Danish, retired from a business as Marine Surveyor. Former education as able seaman, mate and certification as Captain in the Merchant Navy. Spend some years in the Danish Navy as lieutenant and many years in the Danish Police force. Left Denmark in 2001, sailed down Europe to the Canary Islands, across the Atlantic and spend 3 years in the Caribbean, worked as boat builder on Grand Cayman for a while. Went through the Panama Canal in 2004 and spend 2 years in the Pacific until now, New year 2006-07 on Guam.
Diver with certification as dive instructor **CMAS and PADI.
No smoker.
First mate is a dog, which came on board in the Caribbean, 2½ years ago as puppy. Black and white Staffordshire type Bull Boxer. She is a very good swimmer and sailor and a good watch dog.
She lives on the deck/cockpit.


SAILING FISHING AND DIVING
Until now, more than 70 people have joined Anaconda on her trip around the world. Danish, Spanish, German, French, Austrian, Swiss, English, Irish, American, Panamanian, Polynesian, Micronesian and Icelandic people have been sailing onboard.'
When we sail, we always have fishing lines hanging from the stern, and we catch a lot of fish. Tuna, Dolphin Fish, Wahoo, Spanish Mackerel, Kingfish, Marlin, Sailfish, Barracuda and Sharks is some of them. So we eat a lot of fish for dinner. 
When we come to new places, country or Islands, we explore the area, find the good dive spots, dive and snorkel, travel up the maintains or just enjoy the local environment. After many days in remote areas, it is nice to visit a nice restaurant and enjoy the food and have a couple of beers.

DO YOU WANT TO JOIN US?
There are 7 berth on Anaconda, but is is most comfortable with 5-6 people on board. 
It is not a Charter Boat, so you will have to join the team onboard and work a little every day. While we are sailing, everybody will be on a 2-3 hours watch, which runs 24/7.
The boat is sailing by the wind and wind vane or autopilot, so You just have to keep a proper outlook and report upcoming things to the skipper.
Cooking and cleaning is on shift, but there is lots of time to read, swim and enjoy. In ports or by anchor, we sometimes have to keep a watch on board for security. Sometimes, there are more cleaning and small repairs to be done. Shopping for grocery, diesel and water, we do together, but we will explore the new place, dive and travel around, as we planed to do this way.

What does it cost?
You will be charged 30 USD a day for the berth. That money is used to maintain the boat. 
On top of that, we share all the cost on board. It will be Grocery, like food and drink etc. Diesel, oil, harbor- entrance-, visa- and visitor-fees. It is normally about 400 USD a month, but it depends of how much we use the engine and where we are. It can be less or more. It will be paid on board to "Running boat cost" account. The 30 dollars cost will have to be paid up front for each month.

What is the demand for You?
You don't have to have any sailing experience or skills. You will learn underway. You just have to be yourself and be able to learn. Also, you have to be able to live together with other people in small areas, like being positive, patient and tolerant. Mostly, everybody speak English.
Be sure to have a personal Travel Insurance, required vaccinations and a valid passport.

Rules on board
Smoking is only allowed in the leeward side of the boat on deck.
No narcotic is allowed on board or while You are on board.
Don't think about asking for a place on board.

If You smoke any kind of "funny tobacco". You will be kicked of the boat at once, if it happen.
We have lots of bad examples with strict rules from country to country, so don't even think about it.
This is serious!
The boat can be ceased, with only small amounts of narcotic drugs on board.
We do not sail around drunk. We must always be ready for an unpredicted situations, like bad weather, so we don't drink alcohol, when we are sailing.
That is, we normally have our "Sundowner" drink, to enjoy the sun going down.
When You arrive on board, You will receive a copy of more routine rules on board, just to answer a lot of your questions and to make it easier for you to stay and enjoy.

How do You join the boat?
Contact the skipper Jan Klintegaard on E-mail: XP5439@sailmail.com or on OZ2AAZ@winlink.org

We can receive and send E-mails on board everywhere, so You will get a quick answer about available space on board, where to join the boat, how to get there, what to bring, who else is on board and so on.

Also, You can use the mail: anaconda_sailing@hotmail.com where you can send attachments like photo or files.

Hilsen Jan